Sunday, June 27, 2010

The Pyranees

We travelled to the Pyranees about 2 hours south of Lalioue. We had lunch in one of France's prettiest villages called Saint Sernin before driving along the valley to Givarnie.


Givarnie - a snow capped rocky amphitheatre with waterfalls and 3000 meter peaks. (This is as close as we could push our pram).



On our way home we drove across a mountain pass between two of the valleys. Apparently, the Col du Tourmalet (altitude 2000+m) is sometimes used in the Tour de France (the poor bast*^ds). The drive was spectacular (albeit a bit scary in parts).







Lourdes (aka Catholic Disneyland)

We travelled to Lourdes to check out what all the fuss was about. It was a very strange experience. Lourdes has more hotels than any other city in France other than Paris, hosts 6 million visitors each year and has more than 200 souvenir shops selling virgin Mary shaped water bottles, prayer candles, church robes, prayer beads, etc etc. The TGV even goes to Lourdes.

Pilgrims walking back along the Rue de Grotto

The church built above the grotto where young Bernadette saw the visions of the virgin Mary.

The River (presumably from where the holy water that everyone bottles comes from) right next to "the grotto".

Lourdes is a very strange place which we both found to be more Disney-land than holy-land. We couldn't get out of there quick enough.



Albi

We travelled to Albi, about an hour north east of Toulouse. Albi is famous for two things - it is the birthplace of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec and its cathedral Saint Cecile is the largest brick building in the world.
To give you an idea of just how big this place is, the little white speck at the bottom of the cathedral wall is Catherine with Eliza in the pram.

The cathedral is completely painted inside with superb frescos (this photo doesn't do it justice at all) and the most spectacularly carved rude screen. There are hardly any screens like this left in France as most were destroyed in (one of the many) revolution(s).


Toulouse

Toulouse is known as the pink city as it is built with red brick and terracotta tiles. It is the fourth biggest town in France, has a big student population and is the home of Airbus.
The Capitol (i.e. Marie) in Toulouse

Viva la France

Inside the Capitol

The buildings were nice, but this is what we were really interested in - the food at the gastronomic Victor Hugo markets. (Note: everything in France is named after Victor Hugo or Charles de Gaulle).
The cheeses were superb and so was the lunch in the restaurants upstairs where you could get a three course menu du jour for 17 euro. We liked it so much, we made the 60km drive to Toulouse for lunch twice while we were there!







The Bastides

West of Condom are several Bastides which are medievil walled towns fortified during the 100 years war between England and France. We visited two - Larrasingle and Forces.

The moat at Larrasingle filled with daisies. Unlike most of the towns in rural France, Larrasingle was more museum than town.

Of course even towns that are museums have to have a cafe !

Eliza and Catherine at the entrance to the town of Forces - a completely circular Bastide.

Undercover parking - medievil style.

A clash of old and new - two dreadlocked guys drinking longnecks playing boules in the square (or circle in the case of this town) with scruffy dogs looking on.





Condom

The town of Condom is a lot nicer than it sounds.

A spectacular church,

a lovely square,


some lovely cobblestone streets filled with shops (which, like most of rural France, shut in the middle of the day while the owners and workers have lunch),



and even a river to pique nique* beside (*French spelling).





Auch (it rhymes with gosh)

Brian with the medievil town of Auch behind - about 20km from Lalioue. Like most of the towns in France, the old town stands on the top of the hill and the newer parts of the town have spread out around.


Catherine and Eliza in the old pedestrian only part of town. Eliza found the cobblestones pretty uncomfortable. Her stroller over the cobblestones was more electric chair than a smooth ride.


To market, to market...

Brian and the shopping at the covered market in our nearest town of Gimont. Gimont is known for its foie gras markets, but we went to the local fruit and veg market in the main street each Wednesday.

Catherine and Eliza outside the local church.


And when we weren't shopping for food, we were eating it - under the trees...


or on the terrace...







A Lalioue

We continued our holiday in the little farmhouse called Lalioue near the village of Aubiet in south west France. The house belongs to my aunt Victoria and I had visited her family there once before (in 1995).

Brian and Eliza relieved to arrive at Lalioue and celebrating our first meal there - tea with jam and bread (and no, the hills were not alive with the sound of music - just cows and birds).


The view from the terrace where we spent most of our time either reading or eating. What else is there to do on holidays !


The well at the bottom of the garden.



Our little car which we drove to visit the markets and the local towns - 2600km in 2.5 weeks.




Saturday, June 26, 2010

Farewell Victoria

Some last minute tips from Victoria about her house in France before we departed.


Catherine, Eliza, Victoria and Brian on the morning we left for Bristol Airport with Dave the taximan. We ended up flying out of Bristol as British Airways had cancelled our flight from London to Toulouse during their rolling strikes. Thank God for travel insurance !

Hampton Court (in Herefordshire)

We had lunch at Hampden Court one sunny day while we were visiting Victoria. The castle was given leave by the king of the day to be called Hampden Court and has recently been refurbished.
This is the cafe set in a conservatory that used to house an 18C swimming pool.

Brian with Eliza in her borrowed pushchair in the grounds of Hampden Court. Our stroller vanished care of British Airways and so we made do with Felix's stroller (Felix is now studying at a London university).

Hampden Court has stunningly beautiful gardens

and a maze

Catherine standing at the top of the tower that stands in the middle of the maze. I was actually trying to work out a way out!




At home in Hereford

Brian and Victoria lunching in the garden which we did almost every day as the weather was so good. A little bit of wine and some wonderful food - I never wanted to leave !

A view of the garden from the top floor window with local town Bushbank in the background

Eliza had a wonderful time lolling about in the garden with her great (ie fantastic) aunt Victoria.


Eliza and her favourite frog. Froggie was worth its weight in gold by the end of our trip !


The lawn. They sure don't make them like this in Australia.





Maloney's wedding

We just happened to be in England on the day my friend Catherine Maloney got married so Eliza and I went along to celebrate the occasion. Brian stayed in Oxford for some boy time with friend Mark.

Eliza and Catherine waiting for the bride to arrive

A very happy bride, Catherine, and groom, James, who are expecting their first child in August 2010

Very relieved


The lovely Heather Rolinson with Eliza



The girls from front left - Heather, Eliza and Catherine the bride. Back row from left - Catherine (me), Nadene, and Clare at the reception